1) How do I know if my suspension is in need of a partial or full rebuild?
Answer:
The suspension is a dynamic piece of mechanics working together
with the frame and loads of the vehicle. Since there are many
components, sometimes just the worn parts over the years get
replaced, like shocks. However, there are a few things to quickly
check for potential issues:
a) worn wheel bearings/ball joints = loose wheel when jacked
up free
b) worn tires, not from inflation issues
c) inability to maintain car alignment, e.g. sensitive to road hazards
d) "play" in the steering wheel, e.g. it turns an inch or two, but the
wheels do not
e) sag of the vehicle height from factory levels
f) loose ball joints, tie rods, etc.
g) very squeaky original rubber control arm bushings, that are
buldging out and/or dry rotted
h) Knocks/thumps from the front/rear suspension
j) worn down rubber bumper stops/ car bottoms frequently
k) stretched, non-coplanar steering coupler (rag-joint)
m) shocks that won't return when off the car, or allow 2.5-3 bounces
per car corner
2) What do you charge for trim polishing?
Answer:
I charge by the length only, of the surface that has to be
polished. I do not charge extra for small dent and minor scratch
removal. Heavily damaged pieces are not accepted, so be sure to
call and or send pictures if you have any questions. Good core
pieces make for the best finished job you can be proud of.
3) Do you do one quality type of trim polishing or various?
Answer:
I have 3 grades:
A = 98% scratch/dent removal, giving you that show/competition
quality for AACA or OCA, etc National car judging.
B = 85% scratch/dent removal, for the local Sunday sunshine
driver / local car show event.
C = 50% scratch/dent removal, for the daily driver and cruiser for
which not a lot of expense is wanted, just a shine.
Each Grade has a different price/inch rate, A being the highest.
These Finish Grades apply to Stainless Steel, Aluminum and
Plastic. Not done frequently, but I can split grades if the order
is large (e.g. 3/4 to a full car's trim). PLEASE CALL FOR CURRENT
PRICING!
4) Do you work on any make/model trim?
Answer:
In general yes. Please call first. I work primarily on 1964-72 GM
Trim, especially Oldsmobile. But I have worked on 1955 Olds 88,
1964 Plymouth Fury, 1963 Sport Fury, 1978 Olds Cutlass, 1967
Chevelle's, 1972 Monte Carlo's and a 1977 Lincoln, etc.
5) What bead blasting capabiltiy do you have?
Answer:
I use a benchtop blaster currently. I use glass beads and can
accomodate small items up to the size of a 14" x 6" wheel
maximum. I can prime the item in grey acid etch #8 primer and
paint for you, with the exception of using body colors/mixes.
I can also do locally Black Oxide or better known as Parkerized. I
often include a gun oil finish to replicate factory and
prevent flash rust.
I can also have your parts (after cleaning them) plated in zinc,
cadium, etc. from an outside supplier source who specializes in
batch quantities. No job to small or to big. Again quality vs.
quanity.
6) Where do you get your wheel alignments done?
Answer:
8 miles down the road at an Automotive Center, McBride's, owned and
operated by a 20yr+ mechanic specializing in alignments and general
repair, including rotor turning and wheel balancing.
7) How do you decide what to do to a person's car when doing
repairs/work?
Answer:
The big question. I begin with asking the year and model of the Olds
and what the primary or ultimate purpose is for repairing or restoring
the car. Establishing that, I then listen to what the Customer wants to
do and how much they have budgeted. From there, we go over the
vehicle in as much as close an examination as possible regarding
those areas of work I am being requested to quote on. Afterwards, I
will put together an estimated quote of what work/parts are
needed and discuss some possible options, as there always are, and
try to get the quote close to what should be the expected cost of
repairs. Of course, there is a caveat in that not everything will
be discovered from a general review' some items don't show up until
later.
For example:
unknown cracks in the frame, parts and
bolts that break during dissassembly even with the most ginger of care.
When items like these come up, I tell the Customer immediately,
discuss solutions and request a decision by the Customer to make
before I proceed. All items of work are photographed digitally
before and after and are communicated via email to the owner with a
summary of the progress at that time and as the work progresses. We
keep a physical file on each Customer and everything we do for
their vehicle, as well as an electronic file all photos and emails. If
there is ever a question from the Customer, we can simply review
the files. The goal is to provide quality service, use quality parts
made in the USA and take the time needed to get the job done right to
make a satisfied Oldsmobile Customer.
ROAR is not a quick-turn shop business, in that I value Quality vs.
Quantity. I do work my best to get jobs completed on
schedule, but take the time to do the job correctly. I take pride in
the work in order to meet your satisfaction.
